Here’s how to get the most out of your forward-facing sonar

Forward-facing sonar (FFS), while being a key tool in a growing number of anglers’ boats, is not exactly the magic bullet people (who don’t own a unit) think it is. It takes careful rigging, lots of practice, and needs to be fitted to an angler’s fishing style to really pay dividends.

Wisconsin’s Tommy Kemos is one of the most consistent walleye anglers anywhere and said his Garmin indeed helps him compete in today’s high-tech fishing world, but there are some keys to using the technology properly.

One thing to consider is whether to run the FFS transducer on a trolling motor or a separately mounted pole.

“The most effective setup for me is having the LiveScope transducer on the trolling motor, which in Garmin’s case, the Kraken is the only pivot mount that accommodates a LiveScope transducer,” Kemos said. “You are hands-free. The ability to follow the fish and work the bait is a big deal.

“A pole-mounted setup is great for seeing fish, but it is tricky to fish and follow the fish at the same time; you sort of need a third arm. If you do not have a scissor mount TM, a pole really is the only option.”

Kemos said that if a person likes to “spot lock,” that anglers can fish off the back of the boat and use a pole mount.

“I use a Foresight mount on my transom,” he said. “It is fixed permanently but gives me hands-free viewing. It has a wireless controller that I maneuver with my foot. You can also mount it on a pole mount.”

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Getting started

Kemos also said that there are some key tips to get an angler started.

“Calibrate your compass and then tie up to a dock and scan around at fixed targets to make sure your aim is accurate,” he said. “Don’t worry about having a clear screen. The more clutter you filter the less data you will receive. It can also slow down your unit.”

Kemos also suggested to try and scan out as far as possible, while still seeing your lure.

“Fish and your bait are easier to see when your range is zoomed in, but in a lot of lakes, the fish will not let you get that close,” he said. “In vegetation, I run 30 to 60 feet, while in open water I run 90 to 110 feet.”

Lots of manufacturers are creating lures that are supposed to be “seen” better on an FFS unit. Is this hype or does it really add to the experience?

“It’s debatable,” Kemos said. “There are FFS-optimized baits that are designed to have more control and hover, but having your unit tuned properly and mounted correctly helps the most in detecting lures.”

Batteries

How about battery sources for sonar units that can be 10-, 12-inches or even larger? Do batteries have to be upgraded to handle the draw of these monsters?

“I power my boat with Optima Batteries,” he said. “I run AGM for my house battery and a lithium battery for my electronics. The most important thing is to have good stable voltage and clean power running to the unit.”

When Kemos sees a fish, he knows that it’s inefficient to spend too much time on one, if it’s not committing to bite.

“Just because you can see them does not mean they are catchable,” he said. “Make a few casts and move on.”

Brian Brosdahl is a multi-species guide out of Minnesota who also prefers mounting his FFS transducer to his trolling motor in most situations.

“One of the biggest advantages on the Minn Kota Ultrex is turning the transducer super-fast to cover the depths with its cable drive,” he said. “The transducer acts like an extension of your foot and with forward viewing it is popular to sweep back and forth while you are moving forward covering water.”

The Ultrex comes out of the water when it is lifted in a scissor-style allowing anglers to mount the transducer on the shaft, but most the self-deploying motors and manual sliding motors are not shaft-mount-friendly and can damage or cut the cable on the transducer.

“I also use the Minn Kota TargetLock, which is a pole mounted on the trolling motor with a steering system that allows you to move independently from the motor while anchored in spot lock,” Brosdahl said.

This means the angler has a second foot control and remote that steer the transducer right or left so you can turn with your foot and cast. So, an angler will have to monitor the screen, the trolling motor foot pedal, and the TargetLock pole – a daunting task until you get used to it.

It takes practice

Brosdahl agreed with Kemos that a manual down-rod and transducer can be less efficient than the aforementioned and is best for scouting near the steering wheel or tiller area.

Brosdahl advises practicing with FFS to take full advantage of it.

“It takes time and reps on the water to understand your sonar’s interpretation in what it sees,” he said. “Identifying fish versus rocks, weeds, and wood takes time, as does estimating the size of marks on the screen compared to how big the fish are.”

Eventually an angler can tell the difference between baitfish, bluegills, walleyes, or suckers.

“I tell people to practice in the shallows when you can see objects or fish and then compare sonar readings to what you have seen in the water,” Brosdahl said. “When using FFS, use speed with caution because when you see fish you have to be able to slow down without running over them, especially in clear water.”

Kemos and Brosdahl said that staying as far away from the target fish is crucial.

“Last but not least, practice casting exact distances,” Brosdahl said. “Many pros will measure and set up buckets to cast in at 20 to 80 feet in their driveway so when on the water and casting at your target fish you will have a better visual understanding distance.”

What each brand calls their FFS:

Humminbird:

Mega Live 2

Lowrance:

ActiveTarget

Garmin:

LiveScope